Panther tank – Slurry Pump EGM – slurry pump impeller

Panther tank – Slurry Pump EGM – slurry pump impeller

Development and production Design This section needs additional citations for verification. Please help improve this article by adding reliable references. Unsourced material may be challenged and removed. (September 2009) The Panther was a direct response to the Soviet T-34 and KV-1 tanks.

First encountered on 23 June, 1941, the T-34 outclassed the existing Panzer III and IV. At the insistence of General Heinz Guderian, a special Panzerkommision was dispatched to the Eastern Front to assess the Soviet tanks. Among the features of the Soviet tank considered most significant were the sloping armor, which gave much improved shot deflection and also increased the effective armor thickness against penetration, the wide track, which improved mobility over soft ground, and the 76.2 mm gun, which had good armor penetration and fired an effective high-explosive round.

Daimler-Benz (DB) and Maschinenfabrik Augsburg-Nrnberg AG (MAN) were given the task of designing a new thirty to thirty-five-ton tank, designated VK30.02, by April 1942 (apparently in time to be shown to Hitler for his birthday). Panther on the Eastern Front, 1944. Panther Ausf. G in Houffalize, Belgium. The DB design was a direct homage to the T-34. It resembled the T-34 hull and turret form. DB’s design used a leaf spring suspension whereas the T-34 used coil springs. The DB turret was smaller than that of the MAN design and had a smaller turret ring which was the result of the narrower hull required by the leaf spring suspension which lay outside of hull. The main advantages of the leaf springs over a torsion bar suspension were a lower hull silhouette and a simpler shock damping design. Like the T34, the DB design had a rear drive sprocket. Unlike the T-34, the DB design had a three-man turret crew: commander, gunner, and loader. But as the planned L/70 75 mm gun was much longer and heavier than the T-34′s, mounting it in the Daimler-Benz turret was difficult. Plans to reduce the turret crew to two men to stem this problem were eventually dropped. The MAN design embodied more conventional German thinking with the transmission and drive sprocket in the front and a turret placed centrally on the hull. It had a gasoline engine and eight torsion-bar suspension axles per side. Because of the torsion bar suspension and the drive shaft running under the turret basket, the MAN Panther was higher and had a wider hull than the DB design. The slightly earlier, Henschel designed Tiger I heavy tank’s use of a “slack-track” Christie-style pattern of large road wheels with no return rollers for the upper run of track, and with the main road wheels being overlapping and interleaved in layout, were design concepts broadly repeated with the MAN design for the Panther. The two designs were reviewed over a period from January 1942 through March 1942. Reichminister Todt, and later, his replacement Albert Speer, both recommended the DB design to Hitler because of its several advantages over the initial MAN design. However, at the final submission, MAN improved their design, having learned from the DB proposal, and a review by a special commission appointed by Hitler in May 1942 ended up selecting the MAN design. Hitler approved this decision after reviewing it overnight. One of the principal reasons given for this decision was that the MAN design used an existing turret designed by Rheinmetall-Borsig while the DB design would have required a brand new turret to be designed and produced, substantially delaying the commencement of production. Production The MAN design also had better fording ability, easier gun servicing and higher mobility due to better suspension, wider tracks, and a bigger fuel tank. A mild steel prototype was produced by September 1942 and, after testing at Kummersdorf, was officially accepted.

It was put into immediate production. The start of production was delayed, however, mainly because there were too few specialized machine tools needed for the machining of the hull. Finished tanks were produced in December and suffered from reliability problems as a result of this haste. The demand for this tank was so high that the manufacturing was soon expanded beyond MAN to include Daimler-Benz, Maschinenfabrik Niedersachsen-Hannover (MNH) and Henschel & Sohn in Kassel. The initial production target was 250 tanks per month at MAN. This was increased to 600 per month in January 1943. Despite determined efforts, this figure was never reached due to disruption by Allied bombing, manufacturing bottlenecks, and other difficulties. Production in 1943 averaged 148 per month. In 1944, it averaged 315 a month (3,777 having been built that year), peaking with 380 in July and ending around the end of March 1945, with at least 6,000 built in total. Strength peaked on 1 September, 1944 at 2,304 tanks, but that same month a record number of 692 tanks were reported lost. Allied bombing was first directed at the common chokepoint for both Panther and Tiger production – the Maybach engine plant, which was bombed the night of April 2728, 1944. Production was shut down for five months, but a second plant had already been planned, the Auto-Union plant at Siegmar, and this came online in May 1944. Targeting of Panther factories began with a bombing raid on the DB plant on August 6, 1944, and again on the night of August 23-24, 1944. MAN was struck on September 10, October 3, and October 19, 1944, and then again on January 3 and February 2021, 1945. MNH was not attacked until March 14 and March 28, 1945. In addition to interfering with tank production goals, the bombing forced a steep drop in the production of spare parts. Spare parts as a percentage of tank production dropped from 2530 percent in 1943, to 8 percent in the fall of 1944. This only compounded the problems with reliability and numbers of operational Panthers as tanks in the field had to be cannibalized for parts. Production figures Panther tank production line The Panther was the third most produced German armored fighting vehicle. Production by type[citation needed] Model Number Date Notes Prototype 2 11/42 Designated V1 and V2 Ausf. D 842 1/43 to 9/43 Ausf. A 2,192 8/43 to 6/44 Sometimes called Ausf. A2 Ausf. G 2,953 3/44 to 4/45 Befehlspanzer Panther 329 5/43 to 2/45 Converted Beobachtungspanzer Panther 41 44 to 45 Converted Bergepanther 347 43 to 45 Panther production in 1944 by manufacturer Manufacturer % of total Maschinenfabrik Augsburg-Nrnberg (M.A.N.) 35% Daimler-Benz 31% Maschinenfabrik Niedersachsen-Hannover 31% Other 3% Cost One source has cited the cost of a Panther tank as 117,100 Reichmarks (RM). This compared with 82,500 RM for the StuG III, 96,163 RM for the Panzer III, 103,462 RM for the Panzer IV, and 250,800 RM for the Tiger I. These cost figures did not include the cost of the armament and radio. In terms of Reichmarks per ton, therefore, the Panther tank was one of the most cost-effective of the German AFV’s of World War II. However, these cost figures should be understood in the context of the time period in which the various AFVs were first designed, as the Germans increasingly strove for designs and production methods that would allow for higher production rates, and thus steadily reduced the cost of their AFVs. For example, another source has cited the total cost of the early production Tiger I in 19421943 to be as high as 800,000 RM. The process of streamlining the production of German AFVs first began after Albert Speer became Reichminister in early 1942 and steadily accelerated through 1944; production of the Panther tank thus coincided with this period of increased manufacturing efficiency. German AFV manufacturers at the start of World War II utilized only heavily labor-intensive and costly manufacturing methods unsuitable for the needs of mass production; even with streamlined production methods, Germany never approached the efficiency of Allied manufacturing during World War II. Design characteristics The Panther had a five man crew The weight of the production model was increased to 45 metric tons from the original plans for a 35 ton tank. Hitler had personally reviewed the final designs and insisted on an increase in the thickness of the frontal armor – the front glacis plate was increased from 60 mm (2.4 in) to 80 mm (3.1 in) and the turret front plate was increased from 80mm to 100 mm (3.9 in). The Panther was rushed into combat before all of its teething problems were corrected. Reliability was considerably improved over time, and the Panther did prove to be a very effective fighting vehicle; however, some design flaws, such as its weak final drive units, were never corrected due to various shortages in German war production. The crew was made up of five members: driver, radio operator (who also fired the bow machine gun), gunner, loader, and commander. Engine The first 250 Panthers were powered by a Maybach HL 210 P30 engine, V-12 gasoline engine which delivered 650 metric hp at 3000 rpm and had three simple air filters. Starting in May 1943, the Panthers were built using the 700 PS (690 hp, 515 kW)/3000 rpm, 23.1 litre Maybach HL 230 P30 V-12 gasoline engine. The light alloy block used in the HL 210 was replaced by a cast iron block to save aluminum. Two multistage “cyclone” air filters were used to automate some of the dust removal process. The HL 230 P30 engine was a very compact design which kept the space between the cylinder walls to a minimum. The crankshaft was composed of seven discs, each with an outer race of roller bearings, and a crankshaft pin between each disc. To reduce the length of the engine further, by one half a cylinder diameter, the two banks of 6 cylinders of the V-12 were not offset – the center points of the connecting rods of each cylinder pair in the “V” where they joined the crankshaft pin were thus at the same spot rather than offset; to accommodate this arrangement, one connecting rod in the pair of cylinders was forked and fit around the other “solid” connecting rod at the crankshaft pin. (A more typical “V” engine would have had offset cylinder banks and each pair of connecting rods would have fit simply side by side on the crankshaft pin). This compact arrangement with the connecting rods was the source of considerable teething problems early on. Blown head gaskets were another problem which was corrected with improved seals in September 1943. Improved bearings were introduced in November 1943 to replace the faulty ones that had failed frequently. An engine governor was also added in November 1943 that reduced the maximum engine speed to 2500 rpm. An eighth crankshaft bearing was added beginning in January 1944 to help reduce motor failures. The engine compartment space was designed to be watertight so that the Panther could be submersed and cross waterways. The result was that the engine compartment was poorly ventilated and prone to overheating. The fuel connectors in the early models were non-insulated, leading to leakage of fuel fumes into the engine compartment. This led to many engine fires in the early Panthers. Additional ventilation was added to draw off these gasses, which improved but did not completely solve the problem of engine fires. Other measures taken to reduce this problem included improving the coolant circulation inside the motor and adding a reinforced membrane spring to the fuel pump. The Panther had a solid firewall separating the engine compartment and the fighting compartment to keep engine fires from spreading to the crew. The engine became more reliable over time. A French assessment of their stock of captured Panthers in 1947 concluded that the engine had an average life of 1,000 km (620 mi) and maximum life of 1,500 km (930 mi). Suspension Interleaved wheels on a Panther The suspension consisted of front drive sprockets, rear idlers and eight double-interleaved rubber-rimmed steel road wheels on each side, suspended on a dual torsion bar suspension. The dual torsion bar system, designed by Professor Ernst Lehr, allowed for a wide travel stroke and rapid oscillations and high reliability, thus allowing for relatively high speed travel by this heavy tank over undulating terrain. However, the extra space required for the bars running across the length of the bottom of the hull, below the turret basket, increased the overall height of the tank and also prevented an escape hatch in the hull bottom. When damaged by mines, the torsion bars often required a welding torch for removal. The Panther’s suspension was complicated to manufacture and the interleaved system made replacing inner road wheels time consuming. The interleaved wheels also had a tendency to become clogged with mud and rocks and ice and could freeze solid overnight in the harsh winter weather of the Eastern Front. Shell damage could cause the road wheels to jam together and become extremely difficult to separate. Interleaved wheels had long been standard on all German half-tracks. The extra wheels did provide better flotation and stability and also provided more armor protection for the thin hull sides than smaller wheels or non-interleaved wheel systems, but the complexity meant that no other country ever adopted this design for their tanks. In September 1944, and again in March/April 1945, M.A.N. built a limited number of Panther tanks with steel roadwheels originally designed for the Tiger II and late series Tiger I tanks. Steel roadwheels were introduced from chassis number 121052 due to raw material constraints. From November 1944 through February 1945, a conversion process began to use sleeve bearings in the Panther tank, as there was a shortage of ball bearings. The sleeve bearings were primarily used in the running gear; plans were made also to convert the transmission to sleeve bearings but were not carried out as production of Panther tanks came to an end. Steering and Transmission Repair of the transmission of a Panther Steering was accomplished through a seven-speed AK 7-200 synchromesh gearbox, designed by Zahnradfabrik Friedrichshafen, and a MAN single radius steering system, operated by steering levers. Each gear had a fixed radius of turning, ranging from five meters for 1st gear up to 80 meters for 7th gear. The driver was expected to judge the sharpness of a turn ahead of time and shift into the appropriate gear to turn the tank. The driver could also engage the brakes on one side to force a sharper turn. This manual steering was a much simplified design compared to the more sophisticated dual radius hydraulically controlled steering system of the Tiger tanks. The AK 7-200 transmission was also capable of pivot turns, but this method of turning could accelerate failures of the final drive. Throughout its career, the weakest parts in the Panther were its final drive units. The problems of the Panther’s final drives were from a combination of factors. The original MAN proposal had called for the Panther to have an epicyclic/planetary (hollow spur) gear system in the final drive, similar to that used in the Tiger I. However, Germany at the time suffered from a shortage of gear-cutting machine tools and, unlike the Tiger tanks, the Panther was intended to be produced in large numbers. To achieve the goal of higher production rates, numerous simplifications were made to the Panther’s design and manufacturing. This process was aggressively pushed forward, sometimes against the wishes of designers and army officers, by the Chief Director of Armament and War Production, Karl-Otto Saur, who worked under (and later succeeded, in April 1945) Reichminister Albert Speer. And so the Panther’s final drive was changed to a double spur system. Although much simpler to produce, the double spur gears had inherently higher internal impact and stress loads, making them prone to failure under the high torque requirements of the heavy Panther tank. In contrast, both the Tiger II and the US M4 Sherman tank had double helical (herringbone) gears in their final drives, a system that reduced internal stress loads and was less complex than epicyclic/planetary gears. Germany’s wartime shortage of key alloying agents for making high strength steels also meant that to reach the desired high production rates a more readily available lower quality steel had to be substituted in the production of the double spur gears. Compounding these problems was the fact that the final drive’s housing and gear mountings were too weak, because of the type of steel used and/or because of the tight space allotted for the final drive; the gear mountings thus deformed easily under the high torque and stress loads, pushing the gears out of alignment and resulting in failure. The final drives of the Panther tank were so weak that their average fatigue life was only 150 km. In Normandy, about half of the abandoned Panther tanks were found by the French to have broken final drives. Plans were made to replace the final drive, either with a version of the original epicyclic/planetary gears planned by MAN, or with the final drive of the Tiger II. These plans were intertwined with the planning for the Panther II, and like the Panther II, never came to fruition. It was estimated that building the epicyclic/planetary gear final drive would have required 2.2 times more machining work, and this would have affected the manufacturing output. The mechanical unreliability of the Panther, a characteristic shared with the Tiger tanks, meant that long road marches would result in a significant number of losses due to breakdowns, and so the German Army had to ship the tanks by rail as close to the battlefield as possible. Armor Armor layout Initial production Panthers had a face-hardened glacis plate (the main front hull armor piece), but as armor-piercing capped rounds became the standard in all armies (thus defeating the benefits of face-hardening, which caused uncapped rounds to shatter), this requirement was deleted on March 30, 1943. By August 1943, Panthers were being built only with a homogeneous steel glacis plate. The Panther front hull had 80 mm of armor sloped back at 55 degrees from the vertical, welded but also interlocked for strength. The combination of a steep slope and thick armor meant that few Allied or Soviet weapons could penetrate this part of the tank. The armor for the side hull and superstructure (the side sponsons) was much thinner (4050 mm thick). The thinner side armor was necessary to keep the tank’s overall weight within reasonable bounds, but it made the Panther vulnerable to attacks from the side by most Allied and Soviet tank and anti-tank guns. German tactical doctrine for the use of the Panther thus emphasized the importance of flank protection. Five millimeter thick skirt armor, Schrzen, intended to provide protection for the lower side hull from Soviet anti-tank rifle fire was fitted on the hull side. Zimmerit coating against magnetic mines started to be applied at the factory on late Ausf D models beginning in September 1943 ; an order for field units to apply Zimmerit to older versions of the Panther was issued in November 1943. In September 1944, orders to stop all application of Zimmerit were issued, based on rumors that hits on the Zimmerit had caused vehicle fires. The rear hull top armor was only 16 mm thick, and had two radiator fans and four air intake louvres over the engine compartment that were vulnerable to strafing by aircraft. Panther crews were aware of the weak side armor and made unauthorized augmentations by hanging track links or spare roadwheels onto the turret and/or the hull sides. As the war progressed, Germany was forced to reduce or no longer use certain critical alloy materials in the production of armor plate, such as nickel, tungsten, molybdenum, and manganese; this did result in lower impact resistance levels compared to earlier armor. Manganese from mines in the Ukraine ceased when the German Army lost control of this territory in February 1944. Allied bombers struck the Knabe mine in Norway and stopped a key source of molybdenum; other supplies from Finland and Japan were also cut off. The loss of molybdenum, and its replacement with other substitutes to maintain hardness, as well as a general loss of quality control resulted in an increased brittleness in German armor plate, which developed a tendency to fracture when struck with a shell. Testing by U.S. Army officers in August 1944 in Isigny, France on three Panther tanks showed catastrophic cracking of the armor plate on two of the Panthers Armament The main gun was a 7.5 cm Rheinmetall-Borsig KwK 42 (L/70) with 79 rounds (82 on Ausf. G) with semi-automatic shell ejection. The main gun used three different types of ammunition, APCBC-HE (Pzgr. 39/42), HE (Sprgr. 42) and APCR (Pzgr. 40/42), the last of which was usually in short supply. While it was of only average caliber for its time, the Panther’s gun was one of the most powerful tank guns of WWII, due to the large propellant charge and the long barrel, which gave it a very high muzzle velocity and excellent armor-piercing qualities. The flat trajectory also made hitting targets much easier, since accuracy was less sensitive to range. The Panther’s 75 mm gun had more penetrating power than the main gun of the Tiger I heavy tank, the 8.8 cm KwK 36 L/56, although the larger 88 mm projectile might inflict more damage if it did penetrate. The tank typically had two MG 34 machine guns of a specific version designed for use in armored combat vehicles featuring an armored barrel sleeve. An MG 34 machine gun was located co-axially with the main gun on the gun mantlet; an identical MG 34 was located on the glacis plate and fired by the radio operator. Initial Ausf. D and early Ausf. A models used a “letterbox” flap opening, through which the machine gun was fired. In later Ausf A and all Ausf G models (starting in late November-early December 1943), a ball mount in the glacis plate with a K.Z.F.2 machine gun sight was installed for the hull machine gun. Turret Panther with regular mantlet. Panther with flattened lower (‘chin’) mantlet The front of the turret was a curved 100 mm thick cast armor mantlet. Its transverse-cylindrical shape meant that it was more likely to deflect shells, but the lower section created a shot trap. If a non-penetrating hit bounced downwards off its lower section, it could penetrate the thin forward hull roof armor, and plunge down into the front hull compartment. Penetrations of this nature could have catastrophic results since the compartment housed the driver and radio operator sitting along both sides of the massive gearbox and steering unit; more importantly four magazines containing main gun ammunition were located between the driver/radio operator seats and the turret, directly underneath the gun mantlet when the turret was facing forward. For the Ausf D and Ausf A models, a total of 27 rounds were stored in these magazines, which was reduced to 18 rounds for the Ausf G model. From September 1944, a slightly redesigned mantlet with a flattened and much thicker lower “chin” design started to be fitted to Panther Ausf G models, the chin being intended to prevent such deflections. Conversion to the “chin” design was gradual however, and Panthers continued to be produced to the end of the war with the rounded gun mantlet. In most cases the Panther’s gun mantlet could not be penetrated by either the M4′s 75 mm gun nor the T-34s 85 mm gun but could be penetrated by well-aimed shots at 100 m by the M4′s 76 mm gun, at 500 m by the Soviet A-19 122 mm gun on the IS-2 and at over 2500 yards (2286 m) by the British 17-pounder using APDS-ammunition. The side turret armor of 45 mm (1.8 in) was also vulnerable to penetration at long range by almost all Allied tank guns including the M4′s 75 mm gun which could punch through at 1500 m. These were the main reasons for continued work on a redesigned Panther turret, the Schmalturm, discussed later. The Ausf A model introduced a new cast armor commander’s cupola, replacing the more difficult to manufacture forged cupola. It featured a steel hoop to which a third MG 34 or either the coaxial or the bow machine gun could be mounted for use in the anti-aircraft role, though it was rare for this to be used in actual combat situations. The first Panthers, the Ausf D model, had a hydraulic motor that could traverse the turret at a maximum rate of 360 degrees in 60 seconds independent of engine speed. This slow traverse speed was improved in the Ausf A model with a hydraulic traverse that varied with engine speed, with a maximum rate of 360 degrees in 15 seconds if the engine was running at 3000 rpm. With the engine at 1000 rpm, the maximum traverse speed was 360 degrees in 46 seconds. A hand traverse wheel was like in any other tank, Axis or Allied, provided for the Panther gunner to fine tune the aim. This arrangement of the turret traverse mechanism was a slight weakness, as traversing the Panther’s turret rapidly onto a target required close coordination between the gunner and driver (to rev up the engine to maximum speed). By comparison, the M4 Sherman turret traversed at up to 360 degrees in 15 seconds and was independent of engine speed, which gave it an advantage over the Panther in close-quarters combat.. Ammunition Storage The locations for ammunition storage for the main 75 mm gun were a weak point of the Panther. No ammunition for the Panther was stored inside the turret, a positive given the weak side turret armor. However, a significant amount of ammunition was stored in the sponsons. In the Ausf D and A models, 18 rounds were stored next to the turret on each side, for a total of 36 rounds. In the Ausf G, which had deeper sponsons, 24 rounds were stored on each side of the turret, for a total of 48 rounds. In all models, 4 rounds were also stored in the left sponson between the driver and the turret. An additional 36 rounds were stored inside the hull of the Ausf D and A models – 27 in the forward hull compartment directly underneath the mantlet. In the Ausf G, the hull ammunition storage was reduced to 27 rounds total, with 18 rounds in the forward hull compartment. For all models, 3 rounds were kept under the turntable of the turret. The loader was stationed in the right side of the turret. With the turret facing forward, he had access only to the right sponson and hull ammunition, and so these served as the main ready-ammunition bins. The thin side armor could be penetrated at combat ranges by many Allied tank guns, and this meant that the Panther was vulnerable to catastrophic ammunition fires (“brewing up”) if hit from the sides. Combat use Panther tanks of the Grodeutschland Division advance in the area of Iai, Romania in 1944. Panther Ausf. Ds on rail cars in April/May 1943. Panthers were supplied to form Panzer Abteilung 51 (Tank Battalion 51) on 9 January, and then Pz.Abt. 52 on 6 February. The first production Panther tanks were plagued with mechanical problems. The engine was dangerously prone to overheating and suffered from connecting rod or bearing failures.

Gasoline leaks from the fuel pump or carburettor, as well as motor oil leaks from gaskets easily produced fires in the engine compartment; several Panthers were destroyed in such fires. Transmission and final drive breakdowns were the most common and difficult to repair. A large list of other problems were detected in these early Panthers and so from April through May 1943 all Panthers were shipped to Falkensee and Nuernburg for a major rebuilding program. This did not correct all of the problems, so a second program was started at Grafenwoehr and Erlangen in June 1943. Eastern Front The Panther tank was seen as a necessary component of the upcoming Operation Zitadelle, and the attack was delayed several times because of the mechanical problems of the Panthers, with the eventual start date of the battle only six days after the last of the Panthers had been delivered to the front. This resulted in major problems in the Panther units during the Battle of Kursk as tactical training on the unit level, coordination by radio, and driver training were all seriously deficient. It was not until the period of June 2329 that a total of 200 rebuilt Panthers were finally issued to Panther Regiment von Lauchert of the XLVIII Panzer Corps (4 Panzer Army). Two of the Panthers were immediately lost due to motor fires upon disembarking from the trains. By July 5, 1943, when the Battle of Kursk started, there were only 184 operational Panthers. Within two days, the number of operational Panthers had dropped to 40. On July 17, 1943 after Hitler had ordered a stop to the German offensive, Gen. Heinz Guderian sent in the following preliminary assessment of the Panthers: Due to enemy action and mechanical breakdowns, the combat strength sank rapidly during the first few days. By the evening of 10 July there were only 10 operational Panthers in the front line. 25 Panthers had been lost as total writeoffs (23 were hit and burnt and two had caught fire during the approach march). 100 Panthers were in need of repair (56 were damaged by hits and mines and 44 by mechanical breakdown). 60 percent of the mechanical breakdowns could be easily repaired. Approximately 40 Panthers had already been repaired and were on the way to the front. About 25 still had not been recovered by the repair service… On the evening of 11 July, 38 Panthers were operational, 31 were total writeoffs and 131 were in need of repair. A slow increase in the combat strength is observable. The large number of losses by hits (81 Panthers up to 10 July) attests to the heavy fighting. A later report (generated every ten days) of the inventory of Panthers on July 20, 1943 showed 41 Panthers as operational, 85 as repairable, 16 severely damaged and needing repair in Germany, 56 burnt out (due to enemy action), and 2 that had been destroyed by motor fires. However, before the Germans ended their offensive at Kursk, the Soviets began their counteroffensive, and succeeded in pushing the Germans back into a steady retreat. Thus, a report on August 11, 1943 showed that the numbers of total writeoffs in Panthers swelled to 156, with only 9 operational Panthers. The German Army was forced into a fighting retreat and increasingly lost Panthers in combat as well as from abandoning and destroying damaged vehicles. The Panther demonstrated its capacity to destroy any Soviet AFV from long distance during the Battle of Kursk, and had a very high overall kill ratio. However, it comprised less than seven percent of the estimated 2,4002,700 total AFVs deployed by the Germans in this battle, and its effectiveness was limited by its mechanical problems and the in-depth layered defense system of the Soviets at Kursk. Its greatest historical role in the battle may have been a highly negative one – its contribution to the decisions to delay the original start of Operation Zitadelle for a total of two months, time which the Soviets used to build up an enormous concentration of minefields, anti-tank guns, trenches, and artillery defenses. After the losses of the Battle of Kursk, the German Army went into a permanent state of retreat against the Red Army. The numbers of Panthers were slowly re-built on the Eastern Front, and the percentage of operational Panthers increased as its reliability was improved. In March 1944, Guderian reported of the Panther: “Almost all the bugs have been worked out”, although many Panther units continued to report significant mechanical problems, especially with the final drive. The greatly outnumbered Panthers came to be used as mobile reserves to fight off major attacks. The highest total number of Panthers listed as operational on the Eastern Front was achieved in September 1944, when some 522 Panthers were listed as operational out of a total of 728. Throughout the rest of the war, Germany continued to keep the great majority of Panther forces on the Eastern Front, where the situation progressively worsened for the Germans. The last recorded status of Panther forces, on March 15, 1945, listed 740 Panthers on the Eastern Front with 361 operational. By this time the Red Army had entered East Prussia and was advancing through Poland. Western Front – France At the time of the invasion of Normandy, there were initially only two Panther-equipped Panzer regiments in the Western Front, with a total of 156 Panthers between them. From June through August 1944, an additional seven Panther regiments were sent into France, reaching a maximum strength of 432 in a status report dated July 30, 1944. The majority of German panzer forces, six and a half divisions, were drawn into the British Second Army sector in the open country around Caen; the numerous battles became collectively known as the Battle of Caen. US forces in the meantime, facing one and a half German panzer divisions, mainly the Panzer Lehr Division, struggled in the heavy, low-lying bocage terrain west of Caen. Against the M4 Shermans of the Allied tank forces during this time, the Panther tank proved to be most effective when fighting in open country and shooting at long range – its combination of superior armor and firepower allowed it to engage at distances from which the Shermans could not respond.. However, the Panther struggled in the bocage country of Normandy and was vulnerable to side and close-in attacks in the built-up areas of cities and small towns. The commander of the PanzerLehr Division, Gen. Fritz Bayerlein made these comments about the weaknesses of the Panther tank in the fighting in Normandy: While the PzKpfw IV could still be used to advantage, the PzKpfw V [Panther] proved ill adapted to the terrain. The Sherman because of its maneuverability and height was good…[the Panther was] poorly suited for hedgerow terrain because of its width. Long gun barrel and width of tank reduce maneuverability in village and forest fighting. It is very front-heavy and therefore quickly wears out the front final drives, made of low-grade steel. High silhouette. Very sensitive power-train requiring well-trained drivers. Weak side armor; tank top vulnerable to fighter-bombers. Fuel lines of porous material that allow gasoline fumes to escape into the tank interior causing a grave fire hazard. Absence of vision slits makes defense against close attack impossible. Through September and October, a series of new Panzer-Brigades equipped with Panther tanks were sent into France to try to stop the Allied advance with counterattacks. This culminated in the Battle of Arracourt (September 1829, 1944), in which the mostly Panther-equipped German forces suffered heavy losses fighting against the 4th Armored Division of Patton’s 3rd Army, which were still primarily equipped with 75 mm M4 Sherman tanks and yet came away from the battle with only a few losses. The Panther units were newly formed, poorly trained, and tactically disorganized; most units ended up stumbling into ambush situations against seasoned U.S. tank crews. Western Front – Ardennes Offensive Burnt out Panther Ausf.G at the Battle of the Bulge, penetrated in the sponson. A status report on December 15, 1944 listed an all time high of 471 Panthers assigned to the Western Front, with 336 operational (71 percent). This was one day before the start of the Battle of the Bulge; 400 of the tanks assigned to the Western Front were in units sent into the offensive. The Panther once again demonstrated its prowess in open country, where it could shoot its victims at long range with near-impunity, and its vulnerability in the close-in fighting of the small towns of the Ardennes, where there were heavy losses. A status report on January 15, 1945 showed only 97 operational Panthers left in the units involved in the operation, out of 282 still in their possession. Losses were 198 Panthers listed as total write-offs. The Operation Greif commando mission included five Panthers assigned to Panzerbrigade 150 disguised to look like M10 Tank Destroyers by welding on additional plates, applying US-style camouflage paint and markings. This was carried out as part of a larger operation that involved soldiers disguised as Americans and other activities. The disguised Panthers were detected and destroyed. In February 1945, eight Panzer divisions with a total of 271 Panthers were transferred from the West to the Eastern Front. Only five Panther battalions remained in the west. One of the top German Panther commanders was SS-Oberscharfhrer Ernst Barkmann of the 2nd SS-Panzer Regiment “Das Reich”. By the end of the war, he had some 80 tank kills claimed. Fortification Pantherturm fortification in Italy, mid 1944. From 1943, Panther turrets were mounted in fixed fortifications, some were normal production models, but most were made specifically for the task, with additional roof armour to withstand artillery. Two types of turret emplacements were used; (Pantherturm III – Betonsockel concrete base) and (Pantherturm I – Stahluntersatz steel sub-base). They housed ammunition storage and fighting compartment along with crew quarters. A total of 182 of these were installed in the fortifications of the Atlantic Wall and West Wall, 48 in the Gothic Line and Hitler Line, 36 on the Eastern Front, and 2 for training and experimentation, for a total of 268 installations by March 1945. They proved to be costly to attack, and difficult to destroy. Panther battalion organization From September 1943, one panzer battalion with 96 Panthers comprised the panzer regiment of a Panzer-Division 43. Panzerbefehlswagen Panther Ausf. A (Sd.Kfz. 267) of the Panzergrenadier-Division Grodeutschland photographed in southern Ukraine in 1944. Battalion Command (composed of Communication and Reconnaissance platoons) Communication Platoon – 3 Befehlswagen Panther SdKfz.267/268 Reconnaissance Platoon – 5 Panther 1st Company – 22 Panther Company Command – 2 Panther 1st Platoon – 5 Panther 2nd Platoon – 5 Panther 3rd Platoon – 5 Panther 4th Platoon – 5 Panther 2nd Company – 22 Panther (composed as 1st Company) 3rd Company – 22 Panther (composed as 1st Company) 4th Company – 22 Panther (composed as 1st Company) Service Platoon – 2 Bergepanther SdKfz.179 From 3 August 1944, the new Panzer-Division 44 organisation called for a panzer division to consist of one panzer regiment with two panzer battalions one of 96 Panzer IVs and one of 96 Panthers. Actual strengths tended to differ, and became far lower after losses. The Allied response Soviet The importance of the tank on the Eastern Front led to an arms race between the Germans and Soviets to produce AFVs with ever greater armor and firepower. The Tiger I and Panther tanks were German responses to encountering the T-34 in 1941. Soviet firing tests against a captured Tiger in April 1943 showed that the T-34′s 76 mm gun could not penetrate the front of the Tiger I at all, and the side only at very close range. An existing Soviet 85 mm antiaircraft gun, the 52-K, was found to be very effective against the frontal armor of the Tiger I, and so a derivative of the 52-K 85 mm gun was developed for the T-34. The Soviets thus had already embarked on the 85 mm gun upgrade path before encountering the Panther tank at the Battle of Kursk. After much development work, the first T-34-85 tanks entered combat in March 1944. The production version of the T-34′s new 85 mm gun proved to be ineffective against the Panther’s frontal armor, meaning the Soviet tank had to flank the Panther to destroy it, while the Panther’s main gun could penetrate the T-34 at long range from any angle. Although the T-34-85 tank was not quite the equal of the Panther, it was much better than the 76.2 mm-armed versions and made up for its quality shortcomings by being produced in greater quantities than the Panther. New self-propelled anti-tank vehicles based on the T-34 hull, such as the SU-85 and SU-100, were also developed. A German Army study dated October 5, 1944 showed that the Panther could easily penetrate the turret of the T-34-85 from the front at ranges up to 2000 m, and the frontal hull armor at 300 m, whereas from the front, the T-34-85 could only penetrate the non-mantlet part of the Panther turret at 500 m. From the side, the two were nearly equivalent as both tanks could penetrate the other from long range. The Battle of Kursk convinced the Soviets of the need for even greater firepower. A Soviet analysis of the battle in August 1943 showed that a Corps artillery piece, the A-19 122 mm gun, had done well against the German AFVs in that battle, and so development work on the 122 mm equipped IS-2 began in the fall of 1943. Soviet tests of the IS-2 versus the Panther included a claim of one shot that could penetrate the Panther from the front armor through the back armor. However, German testing showed that the 122 mm gun could not penetrate the glacis plate of the Panther at all, but it could penetrate the front turret/mantlet of the Panther at ranges up to 1500 m. The Panther’s 75 mm gun could penetrate the front of the IS-2s turret at 800 m and the hull nose at 1000 m. From the side, the Panther was more vulnerable than the IS-2. Thus the two tanks, while nearly identical in weight, had quite different combat strengths and weaknesses. The Panther carried much more ammunition and had a faster firing cycle than the IS-2, which was a lower and more compact design; the IS-2s A-19 122 mm gun used a two piece ammunition which slowed its firing cycle. American and British The Western Allies’ response was inconsistent. The Panther was not employed against the western Allies until early 1944 at Anzio, where Panthers were employed in small numbers. Until shortly before D-Day, the Panther was thought to be another heavy tank that would not be built in large numbers. However, just before D-Day, Allied intelligence investigated Panther production, and using a statistical analysis of the road wheels on two captured tanks, estimated that Panther production for February 1944 was 270, thus indicating that it would be found in much larger numbers than had previously been anticipated. In the planning for the Battle of Normandy, the US Army expected to face a handful of German heavy tanks alongside large numbers of Panzer IVs, and thus had little time to prepare to face the Panther. Instead, 38% of the German tanks in Normandy were Panthers, whose frontal armor could not be penetrated by the 75 mm guns of the US M4 Sherman. The British were more astute in their recognition of the increasing armor strength of German tanks, and had by the time of the Normandy invasion started a program to mount the excellent 17-pounder anti-tank gun on some of their M4 Shermans (Sherman Firefly). British and Commonwealth tank units in Normandy were initially equipped at the rate of 1 Firefly to 3 Shermans or Cromwells. This increased until by the end of the war, half of the British Shermans were Fireflies. The 17-pounder had slightly more punch at long range than the Panther’s 75 mm gun. The US armor doctrine at the time was dominated by the head of Army Ground Forces, Gen. Lesley McNair, an artilleryman by trade, who believed that tanks should concentrate on infantry support and exploitation roles, and avoid enemy tanks, leaving them to be dealt with by the tank destroyer force, which were a mix of towed anti-tank guns and lightly armored AFVs with open top turrets with 3-inch (M-10 tank destroyer), 76 mm (M18 Hellcat) or later, 90 mm (M36 tank destroyer) guns. This doctrine led to a lack of urgency in the US Army to upgrade the armor and firepower of the M4 Sherman tank, which had previously done well against the most common German armor – Panzer IIIs and Panzer IVs – in Africa and Italy. As with the Soviets, the German adoption of thicker armor and the 7.5 cm KwK 40 in their standard AFVs prompted the U.S. Army to develop the more powerful 76 mm version of the M4 Sherman tank in April 1944. Development of a heavier tank, the M26 Pershing, was delayed mainly by McNair’s insistence on “battle need” and emphasis on producing only reliable, well-tested weapons, a reflection of America’s 3,000 mile supply line to Europe. U.S. awareness of the inadequacies of their tanks grew only slowly. All U.S. M4 Shermans that landed in Normandy in June 1944 had the 75 mm gun. The 75 mm M4 gun could not penetrate the Panther from the front at all, although it could penetrate various parts of the Panther from the side at ranges from 400 m to 2600 m. The 76 mm gun could also not penetrate the front hull armor of the Panther, but could penetrate the Panther turret mantlet at very close range. In August 1944, the HVAP (high velocity armor-piercing) 76 mm round was introduced to improve the performance of the 76 mm M4 Shermans. With a tungsten core, this round could still not penetrate the Panther glacis plate, but could punch through the Panther mantlet at 800 to 1000 yards, instead of the usual 100 yards for the normal 76 mm round. However, tungsten production shortages meant that this round was always in short supply, with only a few rounds available per tank, and some M4 Sherman units never received any. The 90 mm M36 tank destroyer was introduced in September 1944; the 90 mm round also proved to have difficulty penetrating the Panther’s glacis plate, and it was not until an HVAP version of the round was developed that it could effectively penetrate it from combat range. It was very effective against the Panther’s front turret and from the side, however. The high U.S. tank losses in the Battle of the Bulge against a force largely of Panther tanks brought about a clamor for better armor and firepower. At General Eisenhower’s request, only 76 mm M4 Shermans were shipped to Europe for the remainder of the war. Small numbers of the M26 Pershing were also rushed into combat in late February 1945. A dramatic newsreel film was recorded by a U.S. Signal Corps cameraman of an M26 stalking and then blowing up a Panther in the city of Cologne, after the Panther had knocked out two M4 Shermans. Production of Panther tanks and other German tanks dropped off sharply after January 1945, and eight of the Panther regiments still on the Western Front were transferred to the Eastern Front in February 1945. The result was that for the rest of the war during 1945, the greatest threats to the tanks of the Western Allies were no longer German tanks, but infantry anti-tank weapons such as the Panzerschreck and Panzerfaust, and infantry anti-tank guns such as the ubiquitous 7.5 cm Pak 40, and mobile anti-tank guns such as the Marder, StuG III, StuG IV, and Jagdpanzer. A German Army status report dated March 15, 1945 showed 117 Panthers left in the entire Western Front, of which only 49 were operational, ). Further development Panther II This section needs additional citations for verification. Please help improve this article by adding reliable references. Unsourced material may be challenged and removed. (September 2009) Panther II on display at Patton Cavalry and Armor Museum, Fort Knox, KY. The turret on display was not originally fitted to this hull and was installed later. The early impetus for upgrading the Panther came from the concern of Hitler and others that the Panther lacked sufficient armor. Hitler had already insisted on an increase in armor to the Panther once, early in its design process in 1942. Discussions involving Hitler in January 1943 called for a Panther tank with further increased armor, initially referred to as Panther 2 (it became the Panther II after April 1943). This upgrade increased the glacis plate to 100 mm (3.9 in), the side armor to 60 mm (2.4 in), and the top armor to 30 mm (1.2 in). Production of the Panther 2 was slated to begin in September 1943. In a meeting on February 10, 1943, further design changes were proposed – including changes to the steering gears and final drives. Another meeting on February 17, 1943 focused on sharing and standardizing parts between the next Tiger tank and the Panther 2, such as the transmission, roadwheels, and running gear. Additional meetings in February began to outline the various components for the Panther 2, including use of the 88 mm L/71 KwK 43 gun. In March 1943, MAN indicated that the first Panther 2 prototype would be completed by August 1943. A number of engines were under consideration for use in the Panther II, among them the new Maybach HL 234 fuel-injected engine (900 hp operated by an 8-speed hydraulic transmission). Thus, plans to replace the original Panther design with the Panther II were already underway before the first Panther had even seen combat. From May to June 1943, further work on the Panther II ceased at the various manufacturers gearing up to produce the tank as the focus was shifted to expanding production of the original Panther tank. It is not clear if there was ever an official cancellation of the Panther II – this may have been because the Panther II upgrade pathway was started originally at the insistence of Hitler. The direction that the Panther II design was headed would not have been consistent with Germany’s need for a mass-produced tank, which was the goal of the Reich Ministry of Armament and War Production. One Panther II chassis was completed and eventually captured by the U.S.; it is now on display at the Patton Museum in Fort Knox. An Ausf G turret is mounted on this chassis. Panther Ausf. F After the Panther II project died, a more limited upgrade of the Panther was planned, centered around a re-designed turret. The Ausf F variant was slated for production in April 1945, but the war ended these plans. The earliest known redesign of the Panther turret was dated November 7, 1943 and featured a narrow gun mantlet behind a 120 mm (4.7 in) thick turret front plate. Another design drawing by Rheinmettall dated March 1, 1944 reduced the width of the turret front even further; this was the Turm-Panther (Schmale Blende) (Panther with narrow gun mantlet). Several experimental Schmalturm were built in 1944 with modified versions of the 75mm KwK 42 L/70, which were given the designation of KwK 44/1. A few were captured and shipped back to the U.S. and Britain. One is on display at the Bovington Tank Museum Model of Panther Ausf. F with proposed Schmalturm The Schmalturm had a much narrower front face of 120 mm (4.7 in) armor sloped at 20 degrees; side turret armor was increased to 60 mm (2.4 in) from 45 mm (1.8 in); roof turret armor increased to 40 mm (1.6 in) from 16 mm (0.63 in); and a bell shaped gun mantlet similar to that of the Tiger II was used. This increased armor protection also had a slight weight saving due to the overall smaller size of the turret. The Panther Ausf F would have had the Schmalturm, with its better ballistic protection, and an extended front hull roof which was slightly thicker. The Ausf F’s Schmalturm was to have a built-in stereoscopic rangefinder and lower weight than the original Panther turrets. A number of Ausf F hulls were built at Daimler-Benz and Ruhrstahl-Hattingen steelworks; however there is no evidence that any completed Ausf F saw service before the end of the war. Proposals to equip the Schmalturm with the 88mm KwK 43 L/71 were made from January through March 1945. These would have likely equipped future German tanks but none were built, as the war ended. E-50 The E series of tanks E-25, E-50, E-75, E-100 (the numbers designated their weight class) – was proposed to further streamline production with an even greater sharing of common parts and simplification of design. In this scheme, the Panther tank would have evolved into the E-50. A conical spring system was proposed to replace the complex and costly dual torsion bar system. The Schmalturm would have been used, likely with a variant of the 88 mm L/71 gun. Derived vehicles Bergepanther on display at Saumur armour museum Jagdpanther – heavy tank destroyer with the 88 mm L/71 Befehlspanzer Panther – command tank with additional radio equipment Beobachtungspanzer Panther – observation tank for artillery spotters; dummy gun; armed with only two MG 34 Bergepanther – armored recovery vehicle Postwar and foreign use This section needs additional citations for verification. Please help improve this article by adding reliable references. Unsourced material may be challenged and removed. (August 2009) Although a technologically sophisticated vehicle for its time, the Panther’s design had only a very limited influence on postwar tank development. The Panther was (arguably) an early precursor to the modern Main Battle Tank, but apart from this debatable distinction only the French postwar AMX 50 tank prototype was directly and significantly influenced by it. While the AMX 50 never actually entered series production, the French did produce a modified version of the Panther’s 75 mm KwK 42 L/70 gun, as the 75 mm DEFA and CN75-50 gun. This gun equipped the first iteration of the AMX 13 light tank as well as the EBR armored car, and was also used by the Israeli M50 Super Sherman.[citation needed] The Panther itself also saw some limited use outside the German military, both before and after 1945. During the war, the Red Army employed a number of captured Panthers. These were repainted with prominent Soviet emblems and tactical markings to avoid friendly fire incidents. The Red Army still used a few Panthers as late as spring 1945.[citation needed] During March-April 1945 Bulgaria received 15 Panthers of various makes (D. A and G’s) from captured and overhauled Soviet stocks, they only saw limited (training) service use. They were dug down, with automotive components removed, as pillboxes along the Bulgarian-Turkish border as early as the late 40′s. The final fate of these pillbox Panthers is unknown but sources indicate that they were replaced and scrapped sometime during the 1950′s. One captured vehicle (nicknamed “Cuckoo”) also saw service with the British Coldstream Guards for some time. Japan reportedly bought a single Panther Ausf. D for reverse engineering purposes in 1943. However the tank apparently never actually made it to Japan. The Panther’s sloped armour and turret design nevertheless did influence the design of Japans last wartime tank prototypes; the medium Type 4 Chi-To and heavy Type 5 Chi-Ri. After the war, France was able to recover enough operable vehicles and components to equip the French Army’s 503e Rgiment de Chars de Combat with a force of fifty Panthers. These remained in service until about 1950, by which time they had all been replaced by French-built ARL 44 heavy tanks. In 1946, Sweden sent a delegation to France to examine surviving specimens of German military vehicles. During their visit, the delegates found a few surviving Panthers and had one shipped to Sweden for further testing and evaluation. Testing continued until 1961. The tank is currently on display in the Deutsches Panzermuseum in Munster. Surviving vehicles In working order. Military Vehicle Technology Foundation, USA. Ausf. A Muse des Blinds, France. Ausf. A Deutsches Panzermuseum, Munster, Germany. Ausf. A Command Tank Wehrtechnische Studiensammlung, Koblenz, Germany. Ausf. G. Completed after the war in the Panther factory under supervision by UK REME engineers, used for tests Friedrich Christian Flick Private Collection, Germany. Ausf. G. Completed after the war in the Panther factory under supervision by UK REME engineers, used for tests Kubinka Tank Museum, Russia. Ausf.G Not running, more or less complete. Wilhelmina park, Breda, The Netherlands. The only known complete surviving Ausf. D. This tank was donated by the Polish 1st Armored Division after liberating Breda. It was restored in 20042005 for static display by Kevin Wheatcroft in exchange for automotive components. Panzermuseum Thun, Thun, Switzerland. Advertised as an Ausf. D/G hybrid, with a D hull and G turret. There are many questions surrounding this vehicle. The turret has a replacement sheet metal mantlet, vaguely resembling a late Ausf. G mantlet, with no ports for gunners sight or coaxial MG. The pistol port on the turret rear indicates an Ausf. A or early Ausf G. The hull with the “letterbox” MG slot indicates an Ausf. D or early Ausf. A. The turret and hull numbers could help identify the correct model designation for the hybrid but neither of the numbers have been made public. Kevin Wheatcroft, private collector, UK. One being restored. Early Ausf. A (DEMAG production). Two more to follow, one Ausf. A and one Ausf. A converted to a D. The restored Panther ausf A on display at the Canadian War Museum in Ottawa. Canadian War Museum. In January 2008 a partially restored Panther Ausf. A was put on display. It had been donated to the museum from CFB Borden, which acquired it following V-E celebrations in May 1945. It had spent two years in restoration prior to being put on public display. Rex & Rod Cadman Collection, UK. Ausf. A US Army Ordnance Museum. Ausf. A Sinsheim Auto & Technik Museum, Sinsheim, Germany. Ausf. A Muse des Blinds, Saumur, France. Ausf. A Muse des Blinds, Saumur, France. Ausf. A Mourmelon-le-Grand, France. Ausf. A Muse des Blinds, Saumur, France. Ausf. G Bovington Tank Museum, UK. Ausf. G. Completed after the war in the Panther factory under supervision by UK REME engineers, used for tests. Panther in the river at Houffalize, 1945 Houffalize in the Ardennes region of Belgium. A Panther Ausf. G can be found in the village. It fell into the river during the Battle of the Bulge and was later retrieved as a memorial. US Army Ordnance Museum. An Ausf. G with one of two surviving turrets with the flattened lower (‘chin’) mantlet National War and Resistance Museum, Overloon, Netherlands. Ausf. G General George Patton Museum, Fort Knox, KY, USA. Ausf. G General George Patton Museum, Fort Knox, KY, USA. Panther II chassis with a late Ausf. G turret, the second surviving turret with the flattened lower (‘chin’) mantlet. Restored with many components from the Ausf. G in the Museum collection. Wrecks. Sinsheim Auto & Technik Museum, Sinsheim, Germany. Ausf. A August 1944 Museum, Falaise, France. Ausf. A Kevin Wheatcroft, private collector, UK. Ausf. A. Will be restored. All components needed are already sourced or remanufactured. Kevin Wheatcroft, private collector, UK. Ausf. A. Will be restored to an Ausf. D. All components needed are already sourced or remanufactured. Grandmenil, Belgium. Ausf. G Celles, Houyet, Belgium. Ausf. G Detailed specifications Three-view profile of Pzkpfw. V Ausf. A. Copyright Giovanni Paulli. Crew: 5 Dimensions Length including gun: 8.66 m hull only: 6.87 m Width: hull: 3.27 m, with skirt plates: 3.42 m Height: 2.99 m Combat weight: Ausf. D 43.0 t Ausf. A 45.5 tonnes Ausf. G 44.8 t (46.58 t with steel road wheels) Performance Road speed: 55 km/h at 3,000 rpm (46 km/h at 2,500 rpm) Road range: 200 km Suspension and tracks type: dual torsion-bar Shock absorbers: on 2nd and 7th swing arms on either side Track type: Kgs 64/660/150 du…

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Aquarium Care – 3 Great Ways To Condition Water In Your Fish Tank

Aquarium Care – 3 Great Ways To Condition Water In Your Fish Tank

Creating a condition that is safe for the survival of fish in the aquarium is very essential factor. A careful study has to be made of the water condition and the water should be modified with buffers to make it safe for the fish to live in. The fish live in alkaline conditions which prevent a drop in the balance and regulate the balance of pH in the water. Tap water is used most of the time for fish tanks and requires treatment which has to be purchased regularly.

1. Various kinds of Water treatments
For those who are new to the hobby of keeping fish it is essential to get to know how to test the water and to find out what is lacking in it or what is in excess. There are kits which provide you with the results of ammonia, nitrates, nitrites and chlorine in the water in the tank. The waste produced by the fish creates ammonia which turns into nitrates, so you should conduct the tests regularly at a certain time on the water. Unlike humans fish cannot tolerate chlorine in the water which is used to make water potable for human consumption.

Before you get yourself water treatment solutions it is best to have the tap water tested so that you know what sort of water you have and what the solution for it should be. You could call the local department for testing water and also inform them that you have an aquarium and would like to know the water analysis for this reason. Tap water usually contains Trichloroethylene or TCE, phosphates, metal, chlorine, copper and chloramines.

2. How to make tap water fit for use for your fish tank
When you use tap water for the fish tank it is better to allow the water to run for a while before filling the fish tank, or even let it stand overnight so that it gets purified or additional chemicals are removed.

In case there are only chlorinates in the tap water then you could use treatment such as thiosulphate dechlorinators which are sodium based. In case there are other chemicals in the water then it would be better to consult your pet shop about the sort of treatment you should use for the water.

3. Cleaning equipment for the tank
You would need things like nets, buckets, a hose etc. for cleaning your fish tank. These things are not very expensive and you could even search on the internet where you can get this stuff in your locality or to a place closest to your location. You could also do some research on the internet and find out more about water cleaning methods for use in the fish tanks.

Another wrong notion which is a myth is that salt should be added to the water to maintain fish, however some fish from tropical waters find salt de-stressing in the water.

Abhishek is an avid Fish Lover and he has got some great Aquarium Care Secrets up his sleeves! Download his FREE 105 Pages Ebook, “Aquarium Care Made Easy!” from his website http://www.Wonder-Homes.com/636/index.htm . Only limited Free Copies available.

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Tropical Fish Tank Filters

Tropical Fish Tank Filters

Setting up a tropical fish tank is explained below. Depending upon the fish you might be going to keep and other data, modify the procedure according to your requirement.

The equipment needed to set up a tropical fish tank are heater, replacement filter media, aquarium filter, aquarium gravel, and an aquarium along with decorations either real or fake plants.

The amount of effort essential to setup a tropical fish tank is same as having a cat or a dog as pets. Unless you operate tough at it, it is not an quick job to setup and maintain a tropical fish tank. Every single week maintenance work would be to be performed along with frequent change of h2o. The fish has to be fed at least once in a day. If you will not mind these hard function, then look forward on the pleasure of maintaining a tropical fish at home.

Analyze the variety of fish which you might put from the aquarium prior to the purchase. Certain types of tropical fish grow up to twelve inches or a lot more in length. If you happen to be certain with the sort of fish you will probably be keeping it will likely be simpler to choose the size of the tank desired. Beginners should begin with a ten or twenty gallon aquarium and use it to stock hardier and smaller variety of fish.

The aquarium ought to not be positioned near heater vents or windows to ensure it’ll not affect the temperature and light on the tank. The temperature with the tank is affected by the sunlight which enters through windows. Such an exposure to light may well lead to algae troubles too. The stand which carries the aquarium ought to be be capable of taking the load and weight of the aquarium.

Whilst getting the aquarium and equipment, choose the kind of filter to become utilized. The heater should be capable in the heating the tank properly. Purchase 1 to 1 and half pounds of gravel for each gallon of normal water.

Whilst washing the aquarium will not use detergents or soap and use only normal water. The tropical fish is going to be harmed by the left over residue on the soap. The gravel should be washed well before it was positioned in the tank. The decorations and plants can be added after the cleaned gravel is positioned in the tank.

Flow of normal water on towards aquarium can be controlled by placing a saucer or plate within the middle and by directing the flow of mineral water to it. Add h2o which is corresponding to room temperature. Remove all the chemicals within the normal water including chloramine and chlorine by utilizing appropriate removing agent. Will not fill the tank on the brim because when the arm is positioned from the aquarium the mineral water will overflow and mess up the surroundings.

Allow nearly 15 minutes to ensure that the heater’s thermostat gets adjusted for the temperature in the drinking water and plug all other accessories and turn on the power supply. Wait for a even though just before putting the fish in to aquarium given that the water has to get recycled to a appropriate condition. Add only a couple of fish at a time to enable the filters complete the biological procedure according on the number of fishes thriving in the tank.

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8 Reasons Why Undergravel Fish Tank Filters Are Great

8 Reasons Why Undergravel Fish Tank Filters Are Great

What will definitely guarantee that the fish in your aquarium are healthy and vibrant, above all things, is water that is crystal clear.  And the only pierce of equipment capable of producing the pristine environment is the fish tank filter.  It is the most vital tool for every fish enthusiast and along with a fish tank heater, recreates the environment from where the fish originated.

One filter that has stood the test of time is the undergravel filter.  Though it is mostly used by beginners to fish breeding, it is capable of efficient and reliable filtration equal to any other filter.The filter functions by drawing water through a layer of gravel. The gravel rests on a slightly raised platform away from the base of the tank.  This creates a division between the unfiltered water at the top and a layer of clean water at the bottom, with the gravel acting as a filter.  It performs mechanical filtration by trapping large debris, food excess and waste and beneficial bacteria in the gravel layer also perform biological filtration.

Here are 8 reasons why I consider the undergravel filter to be among the best types of filters on sale today.

Reason #1:  Temperature Regulation

Water is sucked from the bottom of the fish tank and then pumped back in from the top.  This will mix the water up continuosly, as long as you do not turn off the filter.  This circulation of water causes every area of the fish tank to experience the same temperatureBecause of this water circulation, every part of the aquarium maintains the same temperature.  Ideally, if you keep your fish tank heater closer to the lift tubes, it regulates the water temperature even better.

Reason #2:  It Aerates The Water

As the filtered water rises from the bottom through the lift tubes, it will come in contact with outside air.  This aerates the water even better than the bubbles in the tank could.

Reason #3:  Excellent Mechanical Filtration

The gravel is the filter media in this filtration system and they do an excellent job in trapping debris, food excess and fish waste.

Reason #4:  Excellent Biological Filtration

Once the gravel has been given time to age, usually within six weeks without help, it will begin to be colonized by beneficial bacteria.  These Organisms reduce organic proteins into nitrate which can simply be discarded each time you change the tank water.  The nitrate is also a substance consumed by aquatic plant life.

Reason #5:  It Is Capable Of Chemical Filtration

This is one factor ignored by most people, that undergravel filters are capable of being fit with cartridges that perform chemical filtration.  Inside these cartridges usually are activated carbon that helps remove heavy metal, complex proteins, odor, color and even chemical treatment.

Reason #6:  A Bigger Capacity For Waste

The gravel is the element in the filter that actually does the filtration and because they cover a large area than most filters,, undergravel filters can hold the most waste before it needs to be cleaned.

Reason #7:  Simple To Upkeep

Eventually, a layer of muck will build up over the top of the gravel and this layer of muck needs to be cleaned or it will choke the filtration system.  How do you clean it?  By simplying vacuuming up the muck.  One easy way to do this is to use a rubber tube as a siphon when you want to do a water change and simply let it suck up the muck from the top layer of the gravel.

Reason #8:  Cheap

Isn’t that really the main draw for most of us?  The entire undergravel filter set is generally cheap compared to other filtration system.  The filter media is the gravel and never needs to be replaced.  The parts are quite sturdy but if you need to replace a part, they are cheap.

There you go.  8 reasons why I think undergravel filter are great.  If you’d like to know more of the options available for you and to capitalize on some great discounts, visit Fish Tank Filters now.

Removes nearly 2 times more contaminants One time upgrade – lifetime improvement Installs in minutes No tools required Easier filter change Eliminates pleat spacers – black plastic finger like combs
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The Dirt-Free Fish Tank: Freshwater Aquarium Filters

The Dirt-Free Fish Tank: Freshwater Aquarium Filters

Freshwater aquariums, like any other kind of aquarium, need to be cleaned and freed from all unnecessary particles that have the potential to ruin the aquarium or to harm your aquatic inhabitants inside. Although there is the common manual way of cleaning fish tanks, doing this can often get very tedious, which is why we seek the aid of filters, or more specifically, freshwater aquarium filters.

Filtration methods
The filtration process for all aquariums is usually broken down into three major processes: the biological, chemical and mechanical filtration, each with their own way and own realm of dirt and waste materials to be cleaned.

Biological filtration is the filtration process involving the use of beneficial bacteria to transform several substances in the water. These bacteria literally break down toxic substances commonly found in fish tanks, such as ammonia and nitrites, and transform them into less toxic substances such as nitrates.

Chemical filtration uses the aid of synthetic substances to work out some of the waste material found in water. The reaction of the waste material with the synthetic material allows it to be dissolved, and to be collected easily through the filter. Activated carbon is one of the common materials used for chemical filtration.

Mechanical filtration is a filtration process that involves the use of a filter media to trap solid waste particles in the water. The filter media can be of any material, as long as it can make the waste material stick to it. Regular maintenance of the filter media is required, and it should be replaced periodically.

Filter types
These filters usually involve one or more of the kinds of filtration processes, and it’s entirely up to the hobbyists fish tank specifications whether a certain filter would best suit his or her aquarium or not. Alternatively, you can check out your local hobby stores for freshwater aquarium filters and ask certain experts for advice, but here’s a starting list of filters:

Power filters are the most common in terms of popularity, mainly because they are cheap, usually available at most hobby stores, and relatively efficient. In addition, these kinds of filters are easy to install and use, and you don’t need to suffer much from their maintenance.
 
Canister filters offer that filtration power that you probably can’t find in other filters. They use a mechanism that forces water in the filter media, achieving greater filtering action than most. You have to be wary though, this type of filters is quite hard to maintain, and at most times quite expensive.

Corner filters were the first kind of filters to be used. It works by the simple action of letting the water flow through the filter and into the filter media, and finally filter the water as the filter media begins forming its own beneficial bacteria colony.

Sponge filters make use of a sponge (believe it or not) inside a tube to hoard beneficial bacteria into them, initiating the biological filtration process. Alternatively, the sponge can also be used as a mechanical filter, as it can also trap certain solid particles into it. Some hobbyists install extra sponges for interchanging purposes.

Fluidized bed filters are a relatively new type of filter that uses the concept of using sand for biological filtration. These sands are installed into tubes and are used as the main filter media, letting beneficial bacteria colonize the sand, and then pumping the water upward, which produces the filtering action.

Sandra Gaffney is a freshwater aquarium expert. For more great tips on
freshwater aquarium
filter
, visit

http://www.myfreshwateraquariumsecrets.com/

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What I’ve Learned About (Fish Tank) Filters

What I’ve Learned About (Fish Tank) Filters

Filters are not the sexiest part of your fish tank; most of the time, they’re the part you’d just like to forget about. But we all know that choosing the right filter, and maintaining it properly, is the key to the health of your aquarium. So let’s look at the three types of filtration systems that the average fresh water fish tank can use:

First, there’s biological filtration – that’s what we call all the helpful little bacteria which break down ammonia and nitrite into less toxic nitrate.
These bacteria need lots of oxygen, and a surface to cling to, whether that’s plants, filter media, gravel, or live rock and sand (that is, rock that’s inhabited by microorganisms). Remember that antibiotics will kill good bacteria as well as bad, so move a sick fish to a separate hospital tank before you treat it!

Biological filtration alone is enough only if you have a very small number of fish in a large water volume – if you want a lively tank, you’re going to need one or both of the other types of filter.

The second type is chemical filtration, which uses chemical reactions to remove waste substances from the water. Activated carbon, Algone (plant fibers), and zeolite clay (the type used in cat litter) can be used, and each type has their advantages and disadvantages. Carbon can sometimes leach phosphates into your tank, which promotes algae growth – look for brands that are “low ash” or “acid washed” to avoid this. Zeolite is good at removing ammonia, but can interfere with the establishment of a good nitrogen cycle, so be careful about using it in a new tank.

The third type is mechanical filtration – that’s just your basic porous filter that catches solid particles before they can go back in the water. This type doesn’t do anything about liquid or gaseous chemical wastes. These work best if the filters in them are replaced or thoroughly rinsed every two to four weeks, otherwise they get clogged, or the wastes will decay in the filter until they’re small enough to get washed back into the tank. Remember that a mechanical filter won’t affect wastes that have settled onto your gravel; you’ll need a siphon or vacuum to get rid of those.

Personally, my favorite type of mechanical filter is bonded floss – it doesn’t get clogged as easy as the other types, and you can change part of it at a time to preserve your beneficial bacteria colonies. You can also get loose floss, sponge, or paper cartridge filters. You just want to pick one that traps enough solids to keep the water clear, without getting plugged too often.

Happy filtering!

Together with Iszuddin Ismail, Mic Hudson is sharing his wealth of knowledge on saltwater and freshwater tropical fish tanks. You can start with a free ebook on decorating your fish tanks. Download Fish Tank Aquascape at http://www.PetFishGuide.info

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Choosing A Fish Tank Power Filter

Choosing A Fish Tank Power Filter

When first starting out on their first fish tank, most beginners focus on ease, reliabilty and convenience especially in the realm of maintaining the aquatic life in their aquarium.  And all this while keeping their budget to the barest minimum.  This article will try to address these issues by focusing on Ole Faithful…The Power Filter.

Firstly, I need to say that no matter how much money you’ve poured into setting up your fish tank filter of how great you think it is, nothing improves the living condition of your aquarium more than changing the water regularly.  There is no real shortcut that you can take when it boils down to creating the ideal living condition for your fish.

In the world of Power Filters, three models stand out as the most popular because of their reliability and ease of use.  They are the Tetra Whisper, Marineland Emperor and Penguin, and Hagen Aquaclear.  These models have been in the market for quite some time now and are known to be easy to use and easy to maintain.  If you are justing starting out with Power Filters, I recommmend you consider any of these three.  Let’s look at each in more detail.

Tetra’s Whisper Power Filter

The Tetra Whisper Power Filters use only one impeller to direct water from the fish tank through its filter media and back into the aquarium.  The filter media cartridge is easy to use and easy to replace.  The filter media contains activated carbon for chemical filtration as well as floss as a mechanical filter.  Additionally, a bio-sponge is also incorporated to provide biological filtration.

Having only one moving part makes the Whisper easy to repair and maintain.  Just like its name explain, it is almost silent.The only down point to the Whisper filter is that the filter media is standardized and does not allow you to customize it if you intended to filter out ammonia or phosphate for example.

Marineland’s Penguin and Emperor Power Filters

Penguin and Emperor by Marineland are renown for their Bio-Wheel design where the rotating wheel allows beneficial bacteria access to the atmosphere which has more oxygen than the tank.  This creates a more efficient biological filtration than any other filter is able to create.

These filters also uses a fixed cartridge for their filter media.  The Penguin models have fixed cartridges that cannot be customized but the Emperor filters have an additional cartridge space for you to add your own choice of chemical filter media.   Just like the Whisper, they are quite quiet except for the sound of the water through the Bio-Wheel which honestly is nice to listen to.

Hagen’s Aquaclear Power Filters

Hagen’s Aquaclear Power Filters are popular among fish breeders that like to customize their own filter media.  You have a choice of buying the filter media ready in pre-measured packets from Hagen or make up your own using a filter media bag.  But this might not be such a good idea it all you want is a quick filter media change because this model does not have simple cartridges.

There you go, three of the most popular choices of fish tank power filters on sale today.  Whether you’re a newbie just venturing on your first aquarium or a seasoned breeder looking for a change, these models will give you what you are looking for:  reliability, efficiency and ease of use.

If you’d like to know more of the various Power Filter options available, visit Fish Tank Filters at http://fish-tank-filters.org.  Don’t forget to capitalize on our great discounts from That Fish Place.

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The Basics Of A Fish Tank Filter

The Basics Of A Fish Tank Filter

A fish tank filter can be one of the most important parts of your fish tank, especially when it comes to keeping the tank clean and the fish healthy. Often you will not even notice how well the equipment is working unless it stops working. Once the filter stops working, the waste can build up quickly and things can start going downhill fast.

Types Of Tank Filters Probably the most common type of filters you see at discount stores is the box filter. These both hang on the inside or the outside of the tank, and usually have a charcoal cleaning cartridge in the main box. The water from the tank is circulated up into the box, through the filter and then back down into the tank.

They are rather slow but steady and can usually be found fairly cheaply. They are not the best fish tank filter you can buy, but they can do the job, are easily found and are readily available. Another type of filtering equipment is a filter that covers the bottom of the aquarium floor and is then covered with rocks. In theory the debris and other garbage are filtered out after they hit the bottom of the tank. These are really neat looking and work fairly well, but not as well as the box tank filters.

There are plenty of instructions on how to build your own filters as well, and these can be the best tank filters you can find. Wet/dry tank-filters sit on the edge or rim of the fish tank. The tank water is slowly trickled over filter media, which can be one of several kinds. As the air and water mix along with the filter media, the water is filtered and several chemical processes occur. This is probably one of the better aquarium filter ideas, and it is fairly easy to do yourself at home.

Directions can easily be found online, and often buying the materials for the filter is cheaper than buying a ready made wet/dry fish tank filter. Cleaning and filter Equipment is a vital component of your fish tank. It not only cleans the water, but also allows more oxygen to be mixed in with the water. Fresher, cleaner water helps keep your fish healthy and will help them live longer lives. A tank filter does not have to be a really expensive item, one that competently does the job can be used and doesn not have to be top of the line.

Beeing a Tropical Fish Lover – we have established this Fish Tank – Info Center.
If you need guidance or just plain information, Tony Hartmann can help. He will be a perfect guide. Just visit: Fish Tank Guide
You also can sign up for a e-course to get further information about fish tanks and tropical fishes.

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How To Select The Right Fish Tank Filter

How To Select The Right Fish Tank Filter

Aren’t All Fish Tank Filters Created Equal?

Well, I hate to burst your bubble but fish tank filters are not created equal. Some function better than others while there are those that perform specific functions ideal for certain conditions. The also differ according to price and how often they need to be maintained. I will be delving into the different choices that you have when it comes to aquarium filters and how you can select the right filter for you.

Are Aquarium Filters Really That Important?

Very important, in fact fish tank filters are an absolute must in any aquarium. Along with fish tank heaters, aquarium filters form a system that ensure the living conditions in a tank is just right for healthy and vibrant fish.

Selecting a fish tank filter that is right for you is more of a personal matter. While different types of filters function is different ways, they all perform the same functions which is to filter the water of debris and externals that would reduce the water quality .

How Do Fish Tank Filters Work?

Fish tank filters do one or more of the following tasks when filtering: chemical, mechanical and biological.

Chemical filtration involves the removal of toxins and dissolved matter usually through activated carbon. The carbon filter is extremely porous and traps waste and phosphates in its pores. Other than these, it will also be able to remove odor and ammonia from the water. While it really isn’t all that important to perform chemical filtration, it can be useful especially in a tank meant for quarantine to filter out the excess chemicals used for treatment.

Mechanical filtration is the process of removing large waste and sediments from the tank. This is the most basic filtration but is no less important.

Biological filtration is a very important filtration task. Colonies of beneficial bacteria are used in biological filters to remove toxins and decay from the aquarium. This form of filtration is an absolute must in order to have a healthy and thriving tank of fish.

Choices Of Fish Tank Filters

Usually almost all fish tank filters perform mechanical and biological filtration. You will find chemical filtration as an add on to the more epxensive range of filters. Choosing the type of fish tank filter you need will depend on the size of the tank, the quantity of fish, how sensitive the fish are, the budget you are willing to spend on the filter and finally the amount of time that you have for fish tank maintenance. Below is a list of the different kinds of aquarium filters which are commonly sold today:

Box Filters: Also known as Corner Filters, a see through box is used to hold filter floss and other media. Air is push through an air stone which then pumps water into the filter, through the floss and filter media which performs mechanical filtration. Over time, bacterial colony builds up on the filter media providing biological filtration . Box filters are cheap but you should only consider them for small tanks as they are generally not that efficient. Most fish enthusiasts today also do not favor them because the box which is placed inside the tank tends to stand out like a sore thumb against the beautiful decoration. They require weekly cleaning but are easily to clean.

Undergravel Filters: These consists of a raised plastic platform with a layer of gravel on the top. By utilizing a pump, water is suck from under the gravel, forcing it to flow through the gravel which performs mechanical and eventually biological filtration . Undergravel filters usually comes together with a beginners tank that you buy in a complete set. During the weekly cleaning session, you would have to vacuum the layer of sediments that will accumulate just above the gravel.

Sponge Filters: Fairly efficient, these filters are usually used as a secondary filter to compliment the filtration of a main filter. Sponge filters are cheap but maintaining them can be a bit messy because you’d need to remove the sponge from the tank for cleaning before replacing it back again.

Power Filters: These are the most common filters used by most fish enthusiasts. Power filters provide a complete filtration process and are generally very efficient. Their mid range prices, efficient filtration and easy maintenance makes this the most popular fish tank filter sold today. Just right for a mid size tank.

Canister Filters: These filters are meant for larger tanks which require powerful filters. Canister filters are expensive but they provide the perfect filtration solution. They require very little maintenance usually just a couple of times in a year. Also, the filter is totally out of the water so maintenance does not involve the water in the tank at all.

In Conclusion….

Think carefully about the fish tank filter that you wish to buy because it should be an investment that is supposed to last you for many years. Choosing the correct fish tank filter will ensure not only healthy and vibrant fish but a hobby that will be totally satisfying.

Tim Kessler has been breeding fish for years. He now shares he love for fish keeping as well as the best fish tank filters to use to successfully breed freshwater and saltwater fish in his brand new website Fish Tank Filters at http://fish-tank-filters.org

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Using The Right Fish Tank Equipment

Using The Right Fish Tank Equipment

Are you new to the fine art of owning fish? Having your own fish aquarium is an exciting hobby that will teach you a lot about nature, but the key to proper fish care is using the right fish tank equipment. In order to keep fish alive and in their optimum health condition, you need to accommodate them by producing an environment that mimics what they are used to as closely as possible. This means that their water condition, temperature and surroundings must all match what they are used to. This also means that using the right fish tank equipment is absolutely vital if you want to keep your fish healthy and give them the quality of life that they deserve.

Using the right fish tank equipment means implementing all of the following pieces of equipment in your aquarium set up:

- A proper filtration system.
- A heater.
- A thermometer.
- Aquarium plants or Airstone.
- The right Décor.

Filtration- is a necessary part of keeping your aquarium properly equipped. Filtration pulls the water through, filtering out impurities, waste and other bits and releasing clean water back into the aquarium. Not only should you have the fight filter in your aquarium, but you have to make sure that you are using the right filter media as well. Most filters use charcoal to purify the water before releasing it back into the aquarium, sans waste and debris.

Heater – Most tropical and salt water fish prefer warmer waters. Goldfish are usually more than happy to be in colder waters, but if you want to keep your tropical fish happy, keep them warm. Most heaters for aquariums are set up so that they only click on when the water needs a boost of warmth. Make sure that you also have a thermometer installed inside your aquarium so that you can make sure that the right temperature is being reached at all times. Different fish species have different temperature requirements, so keep that in mind when setting your heater.

Aquarium Plants and Airstones – These two pieces of equipment are not necessarily vital to the health of your fish, but they are nice and helpful additions. Plants and airstones both introduce oxygen into the water and while fish do not need to breathe the air we breathe, they do need the oxygen in the water in order to survive. Airstones release oxygen into the water by way of bubbles, and plants naturally produce oxygen as part of their normal life cycle. So while not exactly necessary, these props are still worthwhile additions to your aquarium setting.

Décor – Some people would tell you that décor is not a vital part of any aquarium setting, but some fish do require it.

For example, African Cichlids are aggressive fish that take up territories in an aquarium. If you plan to house numerous Cichlids in the same aquarium, giving them different territories and boundaries is a good way to keep them from harming one another. Another less than vital aspect of the aquarium setting, but still worthwhile if you want to create a safe haven for your fish.

Derek Rogers is a freelance writer who represents a number of UK businesses. For information on fish and fish tanks, he recommends Seapets, one of the UK’s leading suppliers of fish tank equipment.

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